Chronicle of the Eclipse Patagonia 2024
Los Antiguos, Santa Cruz. Southern Patagonia, Argentina
October 2, 2024
I still remember the exact moment in 2020 when I arrived in Patagonia for to live at the end of November (I’m was living in Buenos Aires, Argentina). A few days later, I experienced a partial solar eclipse from the canyon of the Pinturas River. A few weeks later (I don’t remember the exact dates), I interviewed Diego Hernández, a science communicator from the Galileo Galilei Planetarium in Buenos Aires, to talk about the summer night sky in Patagonia, among other topics. After the live session, we continued chatting, and it stuck with me when he said, «Get ready because in 2024, your area is going to have an eclipse!» Ufff… 2024? I thought… that’s four years away… that’s a long time! And that moment arrived just a few days ago, and it was incredible.
It was a turbulent few weeks for me, filled with uncertainty, as the weather forecast page must have grown tired of seeing my face every day, every hour, for the past month. Especially the three days leading up to the eclipse. For my photography courses, I never bothered to check it because it would only frustrate me in advance, knowing that their predictions often didn’t come true. But this time was different. A week before, they were already forecasting rain, likely snow, and strong winds. The outlook was bleak.
I wondered: Did I do the right thing by choosing to hold the event here? Should I have chosen the coast? I don’t know. It wasn’t easy for me to put this program together; I had several proposals for the project, and my initial idea was in the area of Mount San Lorenzo (inside the deepest Andes mountain range, here in Santa Cruz Province). I envisioned a beautiful postcard with the mountain in the background and the sun eclipsing.
But that dream faded after experiencing a harsh, atypical winter, rainy, snowy, with abnormal temperatures that even caused tremendous river floods very early in the season.
How difficult it was to plan something with such advance time in a Patagonia with such unpredictable weather! So I abandoned that idea. Then, I was contacted by National Parks with the proposal to be part of the program called «Eclipse Patagonia,» which involved not only the Patagonia National Park (distant from the town where I live only 17km) but also the three nearby municipalities, with contributions and talks from the Galileo Galilei Buenos Aires Planetarium, CASLEO, and the Planetarium of the Faculty of Astronomy at La Plata University.
So I decided to go with that proposal, and do it right here in the place where I live. For months, I dedicated myself to projecting the proposal, intending to do a trek, distancing ourselves from the crowds to experience our own journey. Suddenly, I found myself in that beautiful setting: far from everyone, trying to silently imagine how many people would be at that moment in the center of La Ascensión (Patagonia National Park) while we, a group of 10 people, were between the plateau and the steppe, 6 kilometers from the epicenter of the crowd. The chosen location was Puesto Amarillo, on the way to the Buenos Aires Lake plateau, within the La Ascensión Wilderness Nature Reserve, part of Patagonia National Park.
Finally, the day surprised us incredibly: a completely blue sky, with some clouds appearing occasionally, but they didn’t obstruct our view. During the trek, we enjoyed the fragrance and colors of the native flora in full bloom, the geology of the landscape surrounding us, and the occasional bird. Just before reaching the outpost, we spotted a group of several dozen «guanacos» (a kind of lama), eagerly waiting for the eclipse like we were.
- Lengua de Fuego
- Calafate
- Molle
- Roca Guacha
- Roca Guacha
We arrived, unsaddled, had lunch, and settled down to rest, waiting for the key moment: the annularity. In the meantime, we kept an eye on the wildlife; several «loicas» (Sturnella loyca) fluttered around, and we tried to observe any behaviors that caught our attention.

At 5:25 PM, with astronomical precision, the awaited moment arrived: the famous ring of fire. Without a doubt, a spectacle. We even had some iridescent clouds, gifting us colors and magic in the sky.
The drop in temperature was abrupt and noticeable immediately. We all rushed to find shelter, and I, who was barefoot, put on socks and my boots. It was intense; the light had dimmed, though it didn’t completely darken, but the feeling was still strange.
We took advantage of the moment to toast with a delicious red fruit liqueur, the magic of tea, and the haikus from Mangata Blends, paired with the delicious «antigüenses» (people from the town Los Antiguos) alfajores from El Galpón.
At 6pm, with only 25 minutes left before we would lose sight of the moon eclipsing the sun, we began our way back to the center, occasionally observing the end of the eclipse.
I am enormously grateful to all the people who came: Santiagos x2, Ingrid, Marce, Titi, Clarita, Martu, Damián, and Dana, who (I hope) enjoyed the moment and everything shared as much as I did.
I also thank Mangata Tea, El Galpón, Damián Borg for his support, help, and company, and National Parks for considering me.
To Wüsüwül Wirka a pana (N. G. Daniel Huircapan), who shared a lot about his community, the indigenous people Gunun a Kuna (colloquially northern Tehuelches) and their worldview about eclipses with enthusiasm and passion. To Nicolás Meliñanco from the mapuche-tehuelche community «Mapu Newen,» who also shared his worldview on these phenomena. To Mar Alaniz, an anthropologist, who clarified some doubts and corrections for me. To the Secretary of Tourism of the Province of Santa Cruz, Mario Markic, for the interview and sharing a lovely exchange of knowledge. To Wayne Grim, composer, musician, and sound artist, whom I contacted to learn more about his project of soundscaping images from the 2017 eclipse, which caught my attention, and who kindly shared some of his anecdotes with me. You can see and listen to the musical piece he produced here.
I hope I haven’t forgotten anyone, and a special mention to my friends and acquaintances who supported me during the busy weeks leading up to the event. I hope to see you all next time!
I don’t want to overlook some notes and newspaper articles related to the eclipse in which I was mentioned as part of Eclipse Patagonia. Here are some of them.